Before loading your belongings on their truck, your movers will make an itemized list of your belongings. This is a called the household goods inventory. One crew member (usually the driver) will walk through your home making a written list for his records (and yours!). With technological advances, your mover may use a bar code reader, and print out a list for you, but most still write by hand.
The driver will record the conditions of the items in your shipment. Movers use a shorthand "code" to describe these conditions. A typical coding system is provided in the following paragraph. Be sure you understand the coding, and that a finished copy is given to you. Ask to have it explained. (Most condition codes are on top of the inventory list. Ask for a blank page to look over the inventory codes on it.) Any claims related to missing or damaged goods will begin with the inventory. Each item will have a numbered tag on it that corresponds to a number on the inventory list. Check off each item as it comes in your home. It is your right. If exceptions for missing boxes or damaged items are not taken at delivery, your claim may be denied when filed. Document your move via the inventories. Have the driver note any damage or missing items on his (and your) copies of the inventory before he leaves. Inventories are the foundation documents of the moving industry: they are created to protect both parties. (You and the movers.)
Typical inventory codes: BE bent, BR broken, BU burned, CH chipped, CU contents unknown, D dented, F faded, G gouged, L loose, M marred, MI mildewed, PBO packed by owner, CP carrier packed, R rubbed, RU rusted, SC scratched, SO soiled, T torn, W badly worn, Z cracked, MCU mechanical condition unknown.
On loading day, make sure everything is listed on the inventory and that you agree with the descriptions. If you don't agree, make a note on the inventory, and secure a signed copy. Before the van leaves, walk through the house to make sure everything is loaded. This is your responsibility. Once they leave, few moving companies will turn around for something left behind.
Most movers are ethical and honest. They want to provide you with a good move, as much as you want one. In fact, the option I have mentioned in other articles as the best one still holds true: attempt to have the same team pack, load, deliver and unpack your goods. These folks will have a sense of "ownership" about your move, and the lines of responsibility are clearly drawn. Although I won't say "never" to the use of inventories, this move scenario has the least importance on this document. Usually you can just go to the crew leader, with whom you've been dealing, and say "What's up here?" The answer usually will be pretty direct. Inventories are most important when your goods are going in storage, you are moving overseas, or you know your origin and delivery crews will be different. If there are any problems, few can argue with a signed, documented list. Always ask for a copy of this list, and read it over before signing
Monday, October 13, 2008
The Trailing Spouse
It's not a game bird.
Moving because of your spouses job offer?
Moving can be a difficult and stressful time for any couple, made more so when the move is not "directly" yours. Both may feel the losses of friends, co-workers and community, but added to this may be feelings of guilt for causing the move, or resentment for having to go along with it.
Both partners need to feel they have an equal say in the decision. Communicate, compromise, and weigh the sacrifices you both must make. Make sure all major objections are addressed, to cut short any lingering feelings of resentment or unhappiness. Work together, support each other, and move through this stressful situation.
If both parties work, emphasis the opportunities and options of the trailing spouse. Create a timeline: is now the time for a new career? More training? Further school? What is your dream job? How long can you go without working? (Financially and mentally) Network in the new community, perhaps even at your spouses new job. Does he/ she have a relo package that includes job searches for you? Use the internet! In other words, make sure both partners are grounded and have clear goals and targets.
If you have dedicated your life to raising children, managing the household, or being an active community member, a move means greater loss and abandonment. Get support: ask a close friend or relative to visit with you for a short period after the move, Stay in touch with old friends. You are not alone. Use that internet again! Keep active in a club or sports league..begin your community involvement again.
In short, be aware of the other spouse's feelings and problems when moving. Damaged feelings and suppressed emotions are much worse when left to fester.
Moving because of your spouses job offer?
Moving can be a difficult and stressful time for any couple, made more so when the move is not "directly" yours. Both may feel the losses of friends, co-workers and community, but added to this may be feelings of guilt for causing the move, or resentment for having to go along with it.
Both partners need to feel they have an equal say in the decision. Communicate, compromise, and weigh the sacrifices you both must make. Make sure all major objections are addressed, to cut short any lingering feelings of resentment or unhappiness. Work together, support each other, and move through this stressful situation.
If both parties work, emphasis the opportunities and options of the trailing spouse. Create a timeline: is now the time for a new career? More training? Further school? What is your dream job? How long can you go without working? (Financially and mentally) Network in the new community, perhaps even at your spouses new job. Does he/ she have a relo package that includes job searches for you? Use the internet! In other words, make sure both partners are grounded and have clear goals and targets.
If you have dedicated your life to raising children, managing the household, or being an active community member, a move means greater loss and abandonment. Get support: ask a close friend or relative to visit with you for a short period after the move, Stay in touch with old friends. You are not alone. Use that internet again! Keep active in a club or sports league..begin your community involvement again.
In short, be aware of the other spouse's feelings and problems when moving. Damaged feelings and suppressed emotions are much worse when left to fester.
A packing how-to.
Packing: The art of filling a box
Although the industry orders many different carton sizes, most professionals use five basic types.
Mattress cartons (obvious).
Wardrobes (tall cartons with a hanging bar, for clothing).
Picture cartons (thin, vertical cartons for pictures, paintings, and mirrors).
Dish barrels (tall, thicker corrugated cartons, for lamps, china, and various fragile and high value items).
General use cartons (small, medium, and large sizes. Used for books, clothing, kitchenware, linens, bedding, toys, etc.)
Also used by movers: bundles of white paper, called newsprint (for wrapping), and plastic tape (for sealing cartons). Packing done by a professional is quite expensive, as you are charged both for the cost of the provided carton and the labor to fill it. Dish barrels and picture crates are the most expensive cartons; they are labor intensive and time consuming to pack. The costs are preset, and charged per carton. A moving company should pack your goods for two basic reasons: either your household items are of high value and fragile, or you have neither the time nor the energy to pack yourself. In each case you will be increasing cost for either peace of mind or the delegation of work. You can even adjust move costs by deciding who will pack what, and in what increments. You can reduce the packing charges quite a bit if you allow the movers to pack only the breakables (i.e. dining room, kitchen, living room items) while you pack the books, bedding, clothes, linens, toys and tools. Be aware that any box you pack that they move must be filled to the top, and sealed. (Don't forget to mark the room and contents on it!) If you were packing and moving yourself, I would still suggest using a local moving company as a carton resource. In these days of compactors and recycling, retailers don't have the stockpiles of "throw away" cartons they once had. If cost is a driving consideration, buy used cartons (called "stock") from the movers in lieu of new. Most movers have a used carton area, and if they are moving you may give you the stock for free. Even if they charge you, used stock is much cheaper than new stock. Check it over, making sure the flattened cartons are not torn, soiled or stained. Buy some newsprint and tape also while there. Begin by buying dish barrels, book cartons and medium cartons. These three will cover almost anything in your home. If moving yourself, avoid the cost (and space) of wardrobes: you can lay the clothing down up top. Avoid also the cost of mattress cartons (just be careful not to drag the mattress on the ground, as it will soil the bottom edge.) Avoid purchasing the largest cartons (6 cubic feet and over), they are very difficult to pack correctly and if filled with the wrong items, will be impossible to pick up.
Ok, so just how do I pack? As I said before, if you are paying movers for the relocation, defray the packing costs by packing all the non-breakables yourself. Use the small and medium sized cartons you have secured to pack books, bedding, linens, toys, tools, papers, pots & pans, plastics, etc. Use newsprint only to keep items from rubbing against each other in the carton, or to tighten up the carton's contents. All boxes must be filled to the top, lest they crush down and collapse when stacked. If you are moving yourself, or just want to pack it all in any event, please change your packing order: save the above mentioned items, the "easy" stuff for last. While you have the time, energy and carton resources pack the high value, fragile and difficult items first. As you walk into each room with your tape, paper, and cartons look around. Identify whatever it is you don't want to pack...and do those items first! Anyone can pack books and blankets! Leave them for last. The specifics: There is not enough space in this column to address each item you might have to pack. Let me explain a few basics.
Dish barrels: use these for lamps, small pictures, dishes, cups, glasses, stemware, nicnacs, etc. Place a light cushion of newsprint on the bottom of the box, then wrap and place the heaviest and tallest items in first. All items should be wrapped in paper to prevent damage. Fill the bottom completely, then place another cushion of newsprint in, and start another layer of wrapped items until full, then repeat process with lighter items until barrel is full. Always start heavy in the bottom and finish light.
Plates, small pictures, china: wrap in-groups of three of four, with paper in between each piece. Place on edge in the box, not flat!
Stemware: wrap and place vertically in the carton, not on its side, top facing down.
Carton size and weight: heavy items, small cartons. Use your larger cartons for light bulky items, or you will be unable to pick them up. I hope this has helped, and as always, start early and plan. You have many options available, as time and resources will permit.
Although the industry orders many different carton sizes, most professionals use five basic types.
Mattress cartons (obvious).
Wardrobes (tall cartons with a hanging bar, for clothing).
Picture cartons (thin, vertical cartons for pictures, paintings, and mirrors).
Dish barrels (tall, thicker corrugated cartons, for lamps, china, and various fragile and high value items).
General use cartons (small, medium, and large sizes. Used for books, clothing, kitchenware, linens, bedding, toys, etc.)
Also used by movers: bundles of white paper, called newsprint (for wrapping), and plastic tape (for sealing cartons). Packing done by a professional is quite expensive, as you are charged both for the cost of the provided carton and the labor to fill it. Dish barrels and picture crates are the most expensive cartons; they are labor intensive and time consuming to pack. The costs are preset, and charged per carton. A moving company should pack your goods for two basic reasons: either your household items are of high value and fragile, or you have neither the time nor the energy to pack yourself. In each case you will be increasing cost for either peace of mind or the delegation of work. You can even adjust move costs by deciding who will pack what, and in what increments. You can reduce the packing charges quite a bit if you allow the movers to pack only the breakables (i.e. dining room, kitchen, living room items) while you pack the books, bedding, clothes, linens, toys and tools. Be aware that any box you pack that they move must be filled to the top, and sealed. (Don't forget to mark the room and contents on it!) If you were packing and moving yourself, I would still suggest using a local moving company as a carton resource. In these days of compactors and recycling, retailers don't have the stockpiles of "throw away" cartons they once had. If cost is a driving consideration, buy used cartons (called "stock") from the movers in lieu of new. Most movers have a used carton area, and if they are moving you may give you the stock for free. Even if they charge you, used stock is much cheaper than new stock. Check it over, making sure the flattened cartons are not torn, soiled or stained. Buy some newsprint and tape also while there. Begin by buying dish barrels, book cartons and medium cartons. These three will cover almost anything in your home. If moving yourself, avoid the cost (and space) of wardrobes: you can lay the clothing down up top. Avoid also the cost of mattress cartons (just be careful not to drag the mattress on the ground, as it will soil the bottom edge.) Avoid purchasing the largest cartons (6 cubic feet and over), they are very difficult to pack correctly and if filled with the wrong items, will be impossible to pick up.
Ok, so just how do I pack? As I said before, if you are paying movers for the relocation, defray the packing costs by packing all the non-breakables yourself. Use the small and medium sized cartons you have secured to pack books, bedding, linens, toys, tools, papers, pots & pans, plastics, etc. Use newsprint only to keep items from rubbing against each other in the carton, or to tighten up the carton's contents. All boxes must be filled to the top, lest they crush down and collapse when stacked. If you are moving yourself, or just want to pack it all in any event, please change your packing order: save the above mentioned items, the "easy" stuff for last. While you have the time, energy and carton resources pack the high value, fragile and difficult items first. As you walk into each room with your tape, paper, and cartons look around. Identify whatever it is you don't want to pack...and do those items first! Anyone can pack books and blankets! Leave them for last. The specifics: There is not enough space in this column to address each item you might have to pack. Let me explain a few basics.
Dish barrels: use these for lamps, small pictures, dishes, cups, glasses, stemware, nicnacs, etc. Place a light cushion of newsprint on the bottom of the box, then wrap and place the heaviest and tallest items in first. All items should be wrapped in paper to prevent damage. Fill the bottom completely, then place another cushion of newsprint in, and start another layer of wrapped items until full, then repeat process with lighter items until barrel is full. Always start heavy in the bottom and finish light.
Plates, small pictures, china: wrap in-groups of three of four, with paper in between each piece. Place on edge in the box, not flat!
Stemware: wrap and place vertically in the carton, not on its side, top facing down.
Carton size and weight: heavy items, small cartons. Use your larger cartons for light bulky items, or you will be unable to pick them up. I hope this has helped, and as always, start early and plan. You have many options available, as time and resources will permit.
Keep it simple!
If you are clicking "Relocation", you are either in the trade and curious, or are relocating. Most emails I receive are from people about to move, and the questions are usually quite general. Each week I also receive many emails from various industry professionals. They offer advice, "how-to's", and specific problem solving routines and mechanisms they would like to see on the topic. Things like: "How to get a 8 foot armoire in a 7 foot elevator"; "How to pack 24k gold edged china"; "How to protect white carpets", etc. (For the curious, the answers in order are, hang it under the elevator, wrap in acid free paper on edge, purchase carpet saver, a clear, tough adhesive runner.) The problem with a "How-to" format is that it soon gets out of control. The list is endless. Each house or apartment is different, and no two are filled with the same furnishings. I could go on forever, and still not address your problem. I would prefer to "Keep it Simple".
If you've read my other articles, you know I advocate organization and pre-planning. Although I write articles that address general concerns and issues, the topic "Relocation" offers many links and other websites that address a myriad of move related problems. You can create a move timeline, download your own moving calendar, access many priority lists, or make your own. Ryder and UHaul's links contain their own sets of advice and information. I have included Clark & Reid, a world class family of relocation services, with its own credo and advice. In short, just this focused topic and the web may furnish more information than you can use. In fact, you may have too much information. Information overload, coupled with time constraints can be a recipe for disaster. Swamped with choices, options and decisions, suddenly the move days are upon you, and you have no plan!
Please: "Keep it simple!" The following list is a bare bones survival list for any move. If you have done no preplanning, have made no decisions and the movers (or your friends) will be at the door in a few days, adhere to these following tenets.
· Decide what is to be moved.
· Obtain cartons or secure some packers.
· Mark all cartons by room and contents.
· Hire a rental truck, or mover.
· Ensure all furniture of concern is wrapped in pads, or protected.
· Be present at delivery.
· Ensure all beds and tables are set up.
· Ensure bedding, lamps, clock radio, phone are unpacked or visible first night
· Continue with life.
Too simplistic? Of course it is. But if you follow only this list, you will survive the move, have lights the first night, sleep in your bed the first night, and have a kitchen table up for coffee the next morning. (If you can find the coffee pot!) I am constantly bombarded by information about relocation, and it's my profession! If I am sometimes overloaded, then you must be doubly so. Please use all the assets, articles, and links of this topic, and email me with any questions. But, above all, keep it simple!
If you've read my other articles, you know I advocate organization and pre-planning. Although I write articles that address general concerns and issues, the topic "Relocation" offers many links and other websites that address a myriad of move related problems. You can create a move timeline, download your own moving calendar, access many priority lists, or make your own. Ryder and UHaul's links contain their own sets of advice and information. I have included Clark & Reid, a world class family of relocation services, with its own credo and advice. In short, just this focused topic and the web may furnish more information than you can use. In fact, you may have too much information. Information overload, coupled with time constraints can be a recipe for disaster. Swamped with choices, options and decisions, suddenly the move days are upon you, and you have no plan!
Please: "Keep it simple!" The following list is a bare bones survival list for any move. If you have done no preplanning, have made no decisions and the movers (or your friends) will be at the door in a few days, adhere to these following tenets.
· Decide what is to be moved.
· Obtain cartons or secure some packers.
· Mark all cartons by room and contents.
· Hire a rental truck, or mover.
· Ensure all furniture of concern is wrapped in pads, or protected.
· Be present at delivery.
· Ensure all beds and tables are set up.
· Ensure bedding, lamps, clock radio, phone are unpacked or visible first night
· Continue with life.
Too simplistic? Of course it is. But if you follow only this list, you will survive the move, have lights the first night, sleep in your bed the first night, and have a kitchen table up for coffee the next morning. (If you can find the coffee pot!) I am constantly bombarded by information about relocation, and it's my profession! If I am sometimes overloaded, then you must be doubly so. Please use all the assets, articles, and links of this topic, and email me with any questions. But, above all, keep it simple!
Packing it yourself
How often have you gotten a bill and found it a total surprise? Too high, overblown, unexpected and frustrating? This short article deals with some easy suggestions and plans that will help you control costs of one specific part of your move: the packing.
Most moves are split into two cost centers: the labor cost of moving your goods from old house to the new, and the labor and carton cost of having the movers pack your smaller items for you into boxes. A moving company will charge you for the cost of each carton they supply, and the labor cost of each carton that they also pack for you. These costs are broken down on the bill of lading, and on the estimate of services. (If one is performed.) I highly reccommend getting two or three estimates from moving companies. This will give you a base line cost for the packing (if they are to do it all), and also a price range between the moving companies (as no two will estimate exactly the same).
Look at the estimates you have gotten, and attempt to pare down some of the movers packing costs. (Carrier packing, as it is called is very expensive.) Notice that the most expensive cartons are dish barrels, mirror cartons, and wardrobes. Dish barrels and mirror cartons are expensive because of the high value items that are placed in them, and the labor expertise involved. Wardrobes (vertical small hanging closets) are expensive because of the space they take up in the van. These are my suggestions:
Get rid of things unneeded & unwanted. Pack all lesser value items. Buy cartons from movers. The first is the easiest: getting rid of any unwanted items will save you time, labor and packing cost. Roam the house before you begin packing and weed out! Second: let the movers pack the kitchen and dining room glass and china. Let them pack any glass tops, lamps, and large pictures. Let them pack any expensive dresses or suits. Finally, let them pack any high end electronic gear. The cost of packing these items far outweighs the frustration you will feel trying to do it, and if carrier packed, the mover is responsible for their condition at destination. You can pack any books, canned goods, plastics, toys, linen, clothes, plastics, cd's, papers, tools, bottles, etc. Anything less fragile or less valuable can be placed in a box by you. Just remember the box must be full to the top, and sealed and marked. Otherwise the mover may opt to "repack"it...at your cost! Lastly, purchase cartons from the mover (Often they will have used "stock" at a lesser cost. Ask about it.) In any event, moving cartons are made for specific jobs and sizes. Buying them (and asking which sizes are best to use )will keep your costs down while making your packing easier. Historically about twenty five percent of any packing job is dish barrels, mirror cartons and wardrobes. You can do the rest, and perhaps save 30- 40% of the packing costs without killing yourself or breaking anything. Plan and prepare early. On moving day, the movers will have no option but pack everything you have not dealt with, in order to get it safely to the new house. This will only add to your cost. Don't wait until the last minute!
Most moves are split into two cost centers: the labor cost of moving your goods from old house to the new, and the labor and carton cost of having the movers pack your smaller items for you into boxes. A moving company will charge you for the cost of each carton they supply, and the labor cost of each carton that they also pack for you. These costs are broken down on the bill of lading, and on the estimate of services. (If one is performed.) I highly reccommend getting two or three estimates from moving companies. This will give you a base line cost for the packing (if they are to do it all), and also a price range between the moving companies (as no two will estimate exactly the same).
Look at the estimates you have gotten, and attempt to pare down some of the movers packing costs. (Carrier packing, as it is called is very expensive.) Notice that the most expensive cartons are dish barrels, mirror cartons, and wardrobes. Dish barrels and mirror cartons are expensive because of the high value items that are placed in them, and the labor expertise involved. Wardrobes (vertical small hanging closets) are expensive because of the space they take up in the van. These are my suggestions:
Get rid of things unneeded & unwanted. Pack all lesser value items. Buy cartons from movers. The first is the easiest: getting rid of any unwanted items will save you time, labor and packing cost. Roam the house before you begin packing and weed out! Second: let the movers pack the kitchen and dining room glass and china. Let them pack any glass tops, lamps, and large pictures. Let them pack any expensive dresses or suits. Finally, let them pack any high end electronic gear. The cost of packing these items far outweighs the frustration you will feel trying to do it, and if carrier packed, the mover is responsible for their condition at destination. You can pack any books, canned goods, plastics, toys, linen, clothes, plastics, cd's, papers, tools, bottles, etc. Anything less fragile or less valuable can be placed in a box by you. Just remember the box must be full to the top, and sealed and marked. Otherwise the mover may opt to "repack"it...at your cost! Lastly, purchase cartons from the mover (Often they will have used "stock" at a lesser cost. Ask about it.) In any event, moving cartons are made for specific jobs and sizes. Buying them (and asking which sizes are best to use )will keep your costs down while making your packing easier. Historically about twenty five percent of any packing job is dish barrels, mirror cartons and wardrobes. You can do the rest, and perhaps save 30- 40% of the packing costs without killing yourself or breaking anything. Plan and prepare early. On moving day, the movers will have no option but pack everything you have not dealt with, in order to get it safely to the new house. This will only add to your cost. Don't wait until the last minute!
That skewed hierarchy
(Note: This was written in response to the many questions I have received over the past months about the relocation industry, it's changes and trends. I am speaking here primarily about national account corporate relocation. -Ed.)
It's been almost thirty years since the household goods industry was deregulated. Free market, Darwinian economic factors have held sway, and many changes have occurred. The end result is that the ball carrier, that beast of burden who performs most of the true "work" involved in the movement of HHG has been left in the rear of the caravan and has to be pleased with the "scraps" of the revenue stream. The moving company, that beast of burden that performs most of the drudgery involved in the service of relocation, has been left in the dust. Corporate customers, flexing their market share muscle, and aware that the relocation industry is truly "static" (we cannot create new customers), offer contracts only with large discounts attached. Third party providers (those who sell a cafeteria plan mentality to these same corporate customers), offer realty services, third party, banking and transfer services,and also moving services. These same "third party" players also sign on movers with appropriate attached percentages. There are many other revenue feeders floating in this service sector, but the end result is a weakening of the moving company's role and therefore importance and pricing in the relocation industry. Ironic, when not so long ago, these moving companies relations with their respective corporate customers were direct, linear and discount free. An example: In the past, you entered a store, sought out a sales person, were guided in the selection of a well made pair of pants, paid the marked price, and left. Direct and simple. Now, you enter a huge warehouse like building, wade through tiers of staff and personnel of varying roles, select a pair of pants yourself, tell the sales person holding the pants you will not pay $67.00 dollars, but will pay $40.00, take the pants and leave. A chaotic marketplace? Yes, and one that has turned bazaarlike, with multitudes of salesmen (vendors) waving different services and screaming out differing prices. The losers in this carnival: those buying the pants, and those selling the pants. (i.e. Those being moved and the movers.) Moving companies traditonally survive on ridiculous operating margins. Direct and indirect costs, labor, rolling stock and real estate holdings mandate that a constant revenue stream is a must. Couple this with an equation wherein the customer (the corporate account whose families are being relocated) drives the cost of the service, and you have a recipe for disaster. In order to maintain a profit margin and survive, the moving company must attempt to look internally and lower costs. What suffers? Everything. Lowered costs affect the ability to hire and keep good labor ( experienced, quality movers), maintain and purchase equipment and supplies, and create a company culture that is upbeat and not constantly under siege and "in the bunkers".
The end result? Moving companies, and the household goods industry will only regain it's niche at the top of the service sector called relocation after the scarcity of quality movers becomes endemic, and corporate families constantly decry the lack of professionalism and caring by their movers. The spotlight will once again shine on the lowly mover, and all of those currently in the mix will realise you can't have a good relocation without good.........movers!
It's been almost thirty years since the household goods industry was deregulated. Free market, Darwinian economic factors have held sway, and many changes have occurred. The end result is that the ball carrier, that beast of burden who performs most of the true "work" involved in the movement of HHG has been left in the rear of the caravan and has to be pleased with the "scraps" of the revenue stream. The moving company, that beast of burden that performs most of the drudgery involved in the service of relocation, has been left in the dust. Corporate customers, flexing their market share muscle, and aware that the relocation industry is truly "static" (we cannot create new customers), offer contracts only with large discounts attached. Third party providers (those who sell a cafeteria plan mentality to these same corporate customers), offer realty services, third party, banking and transfer services,and also moving services. These same "third party" players also sign on movers with appropriate attached percentages. There are many other revenue feeders floating in this service sector, but the end result is a weakening of the moving company's role and therefore importance and pricing in the relocation industry. Ironic, when not so long ago, these moving companies relations with their respective corporate customers were direct, linear and discount free. An example: In the past, you entered a store, sought out a sales person, were guided in the selection of a well made pair of pants, paid the marked price, and left. Direct and simple. Now, you enter a huge warehouse like building, wade through tiers of staff and personnel of varying roles, select a pair of pants yourself, tell the sales person holding the pants you will not pay $67.00 dollars, but will pay $40.00, take the pants and leave. A chaotic marketplace? Yes, and one that has turned bazaarlike, with multitudes of salesmen (vendors) waving different services and screaming out differing prices. The losers in this carnival: those buying the pants, and those selling the pants. (i.e. Those being moved and the movers.) Moving companies traditonally survive on ridiculous operating margins. Direct and indirect costs, labor, rolling stock and real estate holdings mandate that a constant revenue stream is a must. Couple this with an equation wherein the customer (the corporate account whose families are being relocated) drives the cost of the service, and you have a recipe for disaster. In order to maintain a profit margin and survive, the moving company must attempt to look internally and lower costs. What suffers? Everything. Lowered costs affect the ability to hire and keep good labor ( experienced, quality movers), maintain and purchase equipment and supplies, and create a company culture that is upbeat and not constantly under siege and "in the bunkers".
The end result? Moving companies, and the household goods industry will only regain it's niche at the top of the service sector called relocation after the scarcity of quality movers becomes endemic, and corporate families constantly decry the lack of professionalism and caring by their movers. The spotlight will once again shine on the lowly mover, and all of those currently in the mix will realise you can't have a good relocation without good.........movers!
That crazy season!
And it's not Christmas!
Two of us were standing in front of our scheduling boards today, shaking our heads at the amount of moves posted, and the lack of people available to perform these moves. Both of us have seen almost thirty summers like this come and go. Each year plans and strategies are formed to combat the insanity that is summer in the moving services industry. Each summer most plans fail, and even if we had 1000 people and 1000 trucks, it seems we always need just....one....more! The moral of this short blurb? If you are planning any type of move this summer, either with a professional, or by yourself, schedule the event far in advance. Summer is always a "maxed out" scenario in this business. Avoid being unable to access people or equipment because of poor planning, or ending up with the crew from hell in your home because you asked for, and got, a "last minute" move scheduled.
A decade of single digit unemployment, coupled with the new federal driving license program for commercial vehicles, has limited our biggest resource drastically: people. The moving industry, like everyone else, is desperate for new associates. Few people want to become "movers" anymore.
Don't get caught in the summertime crunch!
Two of us were standing in front of our scheduling boards today, shaking our heads at the amount of moves posted, and the lack of people available to perform these moves. Both of us have seen almost thirty summers like this come and go. Each year plans and strategies are formed to combat the insanity that is summer in the moving services industry. Each summer most plans fail, and even if we had 1000 people and 1000 trucks, it seems we always need just....one....more! The moral of this short blurb? If you are planning any type of move this summer, either with a professional, or by yourself, schedule the event far in advance. Summer is always a "maxed out" scenario in this business. Avoid being unable to access people or equipment because of poor planning, or ending up with the crew from hell in your home because you asked for, and got, a "last minute" move scheduled.
A decade of single digit unemployment, coupled with the new federal driving license program for commercial vehicles, has limited our biggest resource drastically: people. The moving industry, like everyone else, is desperate for new associates. Few people want to become "movers" anymore.
Don't get caught in the summertime crunch!
Hey, who are those guys?
If you are about to move (or have moved before) were your first thoughts when the movers knocked on your door: "Who are these guys? "Will they know what they are doing?" Can I trust them in my house, with my belongings?" Do any of those sound familiar? These are quite common fears for those about to be relocated, and have been verbalised to me in questions like these: "Do you do this every day? Is this a full time job? Do you work for the company? How long have you been doing this?" The unspoken subtext here is: "Are you going to be OK in my house?" A perfectly valid sentiment, and one I share when a stranger is working in my house.
A quick explanation of where we come from, and how the labor pool differs from one moving company to another. The career path of a mover is an accidental one. In 30 years, I have met no one who chose moving as a vocation in childhood and stuck to it. There is no linear career path for a professional mover, and our abilities range from poor to excellent in aptitude and training, like any other profession. The teaching system is experiential; the seasoned teach the new, and those who grasp the concepts move upward into a leadership role. A competent pro needs the strength of a weighlifter, people skills of a casino greeter, and the logisitic skills of a army quartermaster. It's a job of many hats.
Moving companies may differ in how they hire, structure, and retain people. The large "Van lines" (United, North American, Allied, United, etc.) use a system of casual labor for the most part. Its a national satellite system; each of these companies have their own regional "agents" throughout the US. Different people are used for your move with these folks. Packers will come to your home for van line "X", pack your belongings in boxes, and leave. A driver from "X" will come in with his hired "day laborers" and load your goods. Usually the same driver will deliver your goods at the other end, with new hired "day laborers" again. If you wish unpacking, unpackers will come to your home from "X"'s closest agent in your area. It's a chancy system, at best. Even if all parties have been excellent, you probably have had 6-8 people involved in segments of your move. The lines of responsibility are blurred, and any problems are difficult to resolve. This system is the way most long distance interstate moves are performed.
An alternative: There are regional moving companies who are affiliated with the van lines, but also "self-haul"(they may do work for "X", but will handle the whole move with their own people), and there are a few large independants who also work nationally. If possible chose them as an option. These companies (for the most part) use the same people at both ends of the move. Any company that operates on a team basis is preferred. The same two people pack, load, drive, deliver, and unpack your home. They have been there for the whole process, are aware that full responsibility rests with them, can answer any question, and resolve most problems. This is the system I prefer, any would choose if I had to move. Manageable numbers of people in my home, the same people involved throughout, and clear lines of responsibility.
How can you determine which system your mover uses? If you are moving locally, usually the same crew is present at both ends. If you are moving long distance, ask. Ask the salesman (estimator) when he (she) comes to your home to do a move estimate. Be firm in stating that you want an experienced crew leader, and that you want the same crew at both ends. See how this question is answered. If you are brushed off, or the question is glossed over, look for another mover. If these folks are not sensitive to your needs during a sales call, how do you think the move will be? If the salesman makes note of your request, attempts to fullfill it, or promises to pass the message on, think about using them. They are service oriented...they want to perform a good move.
A quick explanation of where we come from, and how the labor pool differs from one moving company to another. The career path of a mover is an accidental one. In 30 years, I have met no one who chose moving as a vocation in childhood and stuck to it. There is no linear career path for a professional mover, and our abilities range from poor to excellent in aptitude and training, like any other profession. The teaching system is experiential; the seasoned teach the new, and those who grasp the concepts move upward into a leadership role. A competent pro needs the strength of a weighlifter, people skills of a casino greeter, and the logisitic skills of a army quartermaster. It's a job of many hats.
Moving companies may differ in how they hire, structure, and retain people. The large "Van lines" (United, North American, Allied, United, etc.) use a system of casual labor for the most part. Its a national satellite system; each of these companies have their own regional "agents" throughout the US. Different people are used for your move with these folks. Packers will come to your home for van line "X", pack your belongings in boxes, and leave. A driver from "X" will come in with his hired "day laborers" and load your goods. Usually the same driver will deliver your goods at the other end, with new hired "day laborers" again. If you wish unpacking, unpackers will come to your home from "X"'s closest agent in your area. It's a chancy system, at best. Even if all parties have been excellent, you probably have had 6-8 people involved in segments of your move. The lines of responsibility are blurred, and any problems are difficult to resolve. This system is the way most long distance interstate moves are performed.
An alternative: There are regional moving companies who are affiliated with the van lines, but also "self-haul"(they may do work for "X", but will handle the whole move with their own people), and there are a few large independants who also work nationally. If possible chose them as an option. These companies (for the most part) use the same people at both ends of the move. Any company that operates on a team basis is preferred. The same two people pack, load, drive, deliver, and unpack your home. They have been there for the whole process, are aware that full responsibility rests with them, can answer any question, and resolve most problems. This is the system I prefer, any would choose if I had to move. Manageable numbers of people in my home, the same people involved throughout, and clear lines of responsibility.
How can you determine which system your mover uses? If you are moving locally, usually the same crew is present at both ends. If you are moving long distance, ask. Ask the salesman (estimator) when he (she) comes to your home to do a move estimate. Be firm in stating that you want an experienced crew leader, and that you want the same crew at both ends. See how this question is answered. If you are brushed off, or the question is glossed over, look for another mover. If these folks are not sensitive to your needs during a sales call, how do you think the move will be? If the salesman makes note of your request, attempts to fullfill it, or promises to pass the message on, think about using them. They are service oriented...they want to perform a good move.
HIring a Professional
Who are those people in my house? You have decided to pay someone else to move your stuff. The problem is: who are they, what will they charge, how competent will they be, and do I want to let them in my house? All good, honest questions and common fears. You are paying someone to provide a service, always a blind leap of faith, and to add to the stress...it involves your most personal possessions! Lets look at "who" to choose. If your move is a corporate one, paid by your company, you may be given the choice of two or three pre-selected professional interstate moving companies your company has on contract. Ask your relocation department staff (or HR people) which one has the best track record, is always on schedule and has the least excuses, complaints, and claims. (Your company may even use an in house "performance report card" for its moves. Ask to review that data.) Network with the people you know have moved, and collect their suggestions...their experience is fresh and to the point. They have gone through what you are about to. If your move is a personal one (called C.O.D. in the industry..."cash on delivery") talk to your real estate agent, other real estate agents, the Better Business Bureau, and the moving companies themselves. Your move can be one of two basic types, and that will determine which type of mover you use. If you are moving "locally", usually less than 50 miles from house to house, the charge for the move is an hourly one. Each town or region usually has many of these small "Mom and Pop" local movers. The Yellow Pages are full of this type. Usually they have no national affiliation, and advertise as "family owned and run" since____(fill in a year). Their market niche is cross-town "on and off" moves, and they can be quite good at these. Your realtor is most apt to suggest this type of company, and if he/ she wants positive feedback from you afterwards, a decent company will be mentioned. The second move type involves longer distance relocation, over 50 miles and even cross-country. While the "Mom and Pop" movers may do some, these moves are best left to Interstate movers. These moves are cost centered around total weight moved, distance transported, and number of cartons packed (by the movers). Your realtor may also suggest one of these companies, and the Yellow Pages are also full of this type. Listed as "interstate" or long distance movers, these companies usually have national affiliations and are part of a cross-country service network.
Based on the feedback you have received, and the research you have done, I would suggest you call three moving companies from the type that matches your relocation. All three companies will come to your house to give you an estimate of time, costs and final charges. (If someone attempts to give you a phone estimate, drop him or her immediately.) All three will attempt to "sell" you their company as the "best". (Note: everyone is "the best", only an idiot would come into your home and say "we are pretty lousy, but please use our services anyway!") Did the salesman or estimator listen to you? Did they spend time walking through your home? Were they clear about schedules? Charges? Did they explain your responsibilities? Were you comfortable with them? Ask them for some literature about their company: moves history, claims frequency, schedule failures. If you are moving around a holiday or in the summer, ask them about their resources during peak seasons. Would you get stuck with some green crew because of staffing problems? Might they not show up at all? If you are moving long distance, ask that the same crew load and deliver you. If this cannot be promised, ask the estimator if the moving company uses casual "day" laborers. If the answer is yes, on occasion, demand that these people not be used on your move. You want full time experienced people in your house. You will be paying good money for this service, demand competent people. (The estimator will note this, and increase the chance that their top shelf people will arrive at your home.) Listen to how they answer these questions. Are they direct, or do they start waffling? Write a quick "hit sheet" for each of the three representatives, and compare them at processes end. Select the one you felt most comfortable with, was most direct, and had the most realistic charges. Don't immediately choose based on cost. Remember...you usually "get" what you pay for!
What are all these charges? Sometimes, moving can be like renting a car. Advertised as "$29.00 a day", why did the midsize "really" cost $52.00 a day, after insurance, fuel, mileage, and incidental airport charges? Remember the two basic move types: Local and Long Distance? Lets look at the charges for each. A local move (under 50 miles, house to house) is charged to you by the hour, for each man used, and for the truck. In the Northeastern US, the cost for a truck and three-man crew ranges from $80 to $160 an hour. The moving company can charge you travel time to and from your home, and additional charges for increased liability coverage (insurance) if you request it, as additional protection for your goods. So, if your move is big enough to take the whole day, it could cost you between $800 and $1600 for a ten-hour day just for the movement of your goods. Remember I said "just" for the movement of your goods. The movers can also charge you for each box they provide, pack, and unpack. These costs are usually fixed, separate, and included in the original estimate. Packing by the mover is very expensive. Be honest with the estimator. Good intentions usually go south and the packing charge increase on moving day because you ran out of steam and the movers had to pack it instead of you. If you want them to pack at all, let it be the high value items; china, glass, lamps, pictures, etc. They are liable for any damage. Invest your time prior to their arrival packing bedding, linens, books, clothing, etc. The Long Distance Move. For this move, the same packing charges apply, as does the same advice; be honest, pack what you can, leave the high value to them. There is a difference in the charge system for the move however. Over 50 miles house to house, the move is based on weight and distance. The charges increase as the weight and distance increase. The moving truck is weighed on a certified scale before it's loaded with your goods and after. The net weight is factored by distance traveled and charged according to a prearranged "tariff" or cost system. It is in your interest to weed out everything unwanted before the move...you will be paying for its weight! The estimator will present you with an estimated cost of services based on what he/ she totals in your home for weight and packing. Be honest and avoid late add on charges. Ask that all estimated charges be explained to you. Don't let that $29.00 rental car become $52.00 because of those killer "additional charges"!
In summary, try to know who will be knocking on your door and how much it is going to cost before the move by making good choices and doing your homework. The good moving companies are out there, and you can find them, with a little help!
Based on the feedback you have received, and the research you have done, I would suggest you call three moving companies from the type that matches your relocation. All three companies will come to your house to give you an estimate of time, costs and final charges. (If someone attempts to give you a phone estimate, drop him or her immediately.) All three will attempt to "sell" you their company as the "best". (Note: everyone is "the best", only an idiot would come into your home and say "we are pretty lousy, but please use our services anyway!") Did the salesman or estimator listen to you? Did they spend time walking through your home? Were they clear about schedules? Charges? Did they explain your responsibilities? Were you comfortable with them? Ask them for some literature about their company: moves history, claims frequency, schedule failures. If you are moving around a holiday or in the summer, ask them about their resources during peak seasons. Would you get stuck with some green crew because of staffing problems? Might they not show up at all? If you are moving long distance, ask that the same crew load and deliver you. If this cannot be promised, ask the estimator if the moving company uses casual "day" laborers. If the answer is yes, on occasion, demand that these people not be used on your move. You want full time experienced people in your house. You will be paying good money for this service, demand competent people. (The estimator will note this, and increase the chance that their top shelf people will arrive at your home.) Listen to how they answer these questions. Are they direct, or do they start waffling? Write a quick "hit sheet" for each of the three representatives, and compare them at processes end. Select the one you felt most comfortable with, was most direct, and had the most realistic charges. Don't immediately choose based on cost. Remember...you usually "get" what you pay for!
What are all these charges? Sometimes, moving can be like renting a car. Advertised as "$29.00 a day", why did the midsize "really" cost $52.00 a day, after insurance, fuel, mileage, and incidental airport charges? Remember the two basic move types: Local and Long Distance? Lets look at the charges for each. A local move (under 50 miles, house to house) is charged to you by the hour, for each man used, and for the truck. In the Northeastern US, the cost for a truck and three-man crew ranges from $80 to $160 an hour. The moving company can charge you travel time to and from your home, and additional charges for increased liability coverage (insurance) if you request it, as additional protection for your goods. So, if your move is big enough to take the whole day, it could cost you between $800 and $1600 for a ten-hour day just for the movement of your goods. Remember I said "just" for the movement of your goods. The movers can also charge you for each box they provide, pack, and unpack. These costs are usually fixed, separate, and included in the original estimate. Packing by the mover is very expensive. Be honest with the estimator. Good intentions usually go south and the packing charge increase on moving day because you ran out of steam and the movers had to pack it instead of you. If you want them to pack at all, let it be the high value items; china, glass, lamps, pictures, etc. They are liable for any damage. Invest your time prior to their arrival packing bedding, linens, books, clothing, etc. The Long Distance Move. For this move, the same packing charges apply, as does the same advice; be honest, pack what you can, leave the high value to them. There is a difference in the charge system for the move however. Over 50 miles house to house, the move is based on weight and distance. The charges increase as the weight and distance increase. The moving truck is weighed on a certified scale before it's loaded with your goods and after. The net weight is factored by distance traveled and charged according to a prearranged "tariff" or cost system. It is in your interest to weed out everything unwanted before the move...you will be paying for its weight! The estimator will present you with an estimated cost of services based on what he/ she totals in your home for weight and packing. Be honest and avoid late add on charges. Ask that all estimated charges be explained to you. Don't let that $29.00 rental car become $52.00 because of those killer "additional charges"!
In summary, try to know who will be knocking on your door and how much it is going to cost before the move by making good choices and doing your homework. The good moving companies are out there, and you can find them, with a little help!
Pre-Move Planning
Who's going to move my stuff?
OK, you've thrown out what you could, given away what you didn't want, and have organized as much as you can. How are you going to move it to the new house? The two basic choices: move it yourself, or hire someone else. Pretty straightforward, yes? Both choices have pros and cons, and both have hidden pitfalls. Lets talk a little about both categories, and hopefully give you enough information to make another "informed" decision.
Moving yourself...an intimidating phrase to most, unless your lifestyle is nomadic, and you have only a sleeping bag and a cooler! I suggest moving yourself only if cost is THE driving parameter, or you are so close in location from the old home to the new that you can move in small increments. Moving yourself entails renting a truck, recruiting friends as temporary labor, and chewing up a goodly part of your free time (and your body). As a professional, I do not advocate moving yourself for many good reasons. There are many hidden costs. You rent the truck from one of the national players (see my suggested websites) by size, and by day and mile. If you care about the condition of your furniture, you must rent furniture pads (from the same company). If you have appliances (Fridge, washer, dryer, etc.) you need an appliance dolly to wheel them in and out; again a daily rental charge. You must return the rented truck with full fuel tanks - more cost. Even if you are depending on friends for labor, I assume you are at least going to feed them - more cost. (By the way, no beer until the move is complete, if ever. Alcohol, physical labor, and driving do not mix.) Add into this scenario the loss of your time, the called in favors from friends, the abuse to your body and chances are moving yourself is NOT going to be enjoyable. Usually the money saved is minimal, and the stress at the max.
Hire someone else.... Sounds a little intimidating also, yes? Strangers moving all your personal "stuff." How trustworthy are they? How skillful? How costly? Like any other service industry, moving companies offer a wide range of skill levels, costs, and customer service. Let's examine cost first. Most moving companies have two basic charge systems. The first is for the packing of your goods in their boxes, by their employees. You may or may not opt for this service. It is expensive, and I will address this in my next article. The second is for the actual movement of your goods, and this is split into two charge systems. If you are moving within the state, and the new house is less than 50 miles from the old, the movers will charge you an hourly rate (usually for three men and their truck). In most metropolitan areas the charge will be at least $100 per hour for all three, depending on your location. If your move is more than 50 miles or you are moving out of state, the movers will charge you by the weight of your goods. They will weigh the truck before and after loading and the net weight of your shipment, multiplied by their charge per hundredweight will determine your cost. Sound confusing? It's not. Basically, the heavier your stuff, and the farther you move, the higher your cost. How skillful and trustworthy are they? Do some homework. Call around to some local realtors, and get a consensus. Who seems to be the "name" locally? Call the Better Business Bureau and check for complaints. If there is a major corporation nearby call and ask for its relocation department. Ask who they use to move their employees. Read the ads; see who has longevity in the business. If they've been around a long time in this service industry, they must be doing something right. If you see a mover working nearby, stop and ask for a card. Look at the equipment. Is the truck clean? Would you want these people in your home? Call a few movers and ask them to come to your home and give you an estimate. Evaluate them while they are in your home. You may know nothing about the moving industry, but are you comfortable with them?
Like everything else, moving entails a myriad of choices. Whichever choice you make, be informed. Do your research. How much will your total cost be if you move yourself? Call the rental company and estimate the charges for the truck, equipment, and fuel. Is your stuff valuable enough to warrant using a professional mover, or do you just not want to do it yourself? Research various movers and their presentation and estimated costs. Sit down and weigh your options. Is the difference in cost between moving yourself and hiring someone that great? Use your time well. Prepare, research, and gather as much information as possible before your move. Don't procrastinate, do it early in the process!
(Next article - Choosing a Professional: Tips and Suggestions.)
OK, you've thrown out what you could, given away what you didn't want, and have organized as much as you can. How are you going to move it to the new house? The two basic choices: move it yourself, or hire someone else. Pretty straightforward, yes? Both choices have pros and cons, and both have hidden pitfalls. Lets talk a little about both categories, and hopefully give you enough information to make another "informed" decision.
Moving yourself...an intimidating phrase to most, unless your lifestyle is nomadic, and you have only a sleeping bag and a cooler! I suggest moving yourself only if cost is THE driving parameter, or you are so close in location from the old home to the new that you can move in small increments. Moving yourself entails renting a truck, recruiting friends as temporary labor, and chewing up a goodly part of your free time (and your body). As a professional, I do not advocate moving yourself for many good reasons. There are many hidden costs. You rent the truck from one of the national players (see my suggested websites) by size, and by day and mile. If you care about the condition of your furniture, you must rent furniture pads (from the same company). If you have appliances (Fridge, washer, dryer, etc.) you need an appliance dolly to wheel them in and out; again a daily rental charge. You must return the rented truck with full fuel tanks - more cost. Even if you are depending on friends for labor, I assume you are at least going to feed them - more cost. (By the way, no beer until the move is complete, if ever. Alcohol, physical labor, and driving do not mix.) Add into this scenario the loss of your time, the called in favors from friends, the abuse to your body and chances are moving yourself is NOT going to be enjoyable. Usually the money saved is minimal, and the stress at the max.
Hire someone else.... Sounds a little intimidating also, yes? Strangers moving all your personal "stuff." How trustworthy are they? How skillful? How costly? Like any other service industry, moving companies offer a wide range of skill levels, costs, and customer service. Let's examine cost first. Most moving companies have two basic charge systems. The first is for the packing of your goods in their boxes, by their employees. You may or may not opt for this service. It is expensive, and I will address this in my next article. The second is for the actual movement of your goods, and this is split into two charge systems. If you are moving within the state, and the new house is less than 50 miles from the old, the movers will charge you an hourly rate (usually for three men and their truck). In most metropolitan areas the charge will be at least $100 per hour for all three, depending on your location. If your move is more than 50 miles or you are moving out of state, the movers will charge you by the weight of your goods. They will weigh the truck before and after loading and the net weight of your shipment, multiplied by their charge per hundredweight will determine your cost. Sound confusing? It's not. Basically, the heavier your stuff, and the farther you move, the higher your cost. How skillful and trustworthy are they? Do some homework. Call around to some local realtors, and get a consensus. Who seems to be the "name" locally? Call the Better Business Bureau and check for complaints. If there is a major corporation nearby call and ask for its relocation department. Ask who they use to move their employees. Read the ads; see who has longevity in the business. If they've been around a long time in this service industry, they must be doing something right. If you see a mover working nearby, stop and ask for a card. Look at the equipment. Is the truck clean? Would you want these people in your home? Call a few movers and ask them to come to your home and give you an estimate. Evaluate them while they are in your home. You may know nothing about the moving industry, but are you comfortable with them?
Like everything else, moving entails a myriad of choices. Whichever choice you make, be informed. Do your research. How much will your total cost be if you move yourself? Call the rental company and estimate the charges for the truck, equipment, and fuel. Is your stuff valuable enough to warrant using a professional mover, or do you just not want to do it yourself? Research various movers and their presentation and estimated costs. Sit down and weigh your options. Is the difference in cost between moving yourself and hiring someone that great? Use your time well. Prepare, research, and gather as much information as possible before your move. Don't procrastinate, do it early in the process!
(Next article - Choosing a Professional: Tips and Suggestions.)
A Brief Glossary
Moving companies, like any sector with specific services or products, tend to use terms, abbreviations and acronyms daily. Sometimes these terms creep into general usage, and add to the confusion of process already viewed by its customer as chaotic. It's not a deliberate intention, and I have compiled a short list of common terms you will likely hear (or read) at some point in a move. If still unclear, please drop me a line.
Accessorial services Services like packing, servicing appliances, crating, stair carries, piano or bulky article items. Often accompanied by additional charges.
Agent A local moving company acting for a national company.
Your contact with the mover. It is your receipt, and also outlines liabilities.
Bulky article Oversized or specialty items (cars, boats, campers, etc.) Often an additional charge to move.
Carrier The moving company you have hired.
Claim Any loss or damage to your goods or property while in the move process.
C.O.D. Cash on delivery. Payment prior to delivery is required. Most movers don't accept personal checks.
CP Carrier packed. Goods packed into cartons by your movers.
Estimate An onsite (or rarely, telephone) survey of your home and goods by the mover to determine weight, space needs, and cost of moving your goods.
Gross Weight The weight of the moving truck loaded with your goods.
Inventory a detailed list of all your goods, created by the mover. The list also describes the condition of your goods.
Linehaul charges The baseline charge for your move. The weight of your goods, plus the miles from house to house determine the basic move cost. This pricing applies only to long distance moves. (See next item.) Additional charges apply.
Local move A move from house to house under 100 miles, within the same state. (Usually charged by the hour.)Long distance moves are over 100 miles, or from one state to another.
Long carry charge The further your house from the movung truck, the more the charge. (the first 75 feet are free.)
Order for Service Document that authorises the movers to relocate you.
Overflow Items loaded on second moving van because the first was full.
PBO Packed by owner. Boxes packed by you, not the movers.
Road van A long haul tractor trailer that moves goods cross country.
Shipper That's you, the customer being moved.
Shuttle The use of a smaller truck transporting your goods to the road van. (Done when house is inaccessible to the larger vehicle.)
Storage in Transit (SIT) When your goods are stored in a warehouse temporarily (Up to 180 days). Separate charges apply.
Straight Truck A truck smaller than a tractor trailer. (So called because, unlike a tractor-trailer, it does not "bend" in the middle.)
Tare Weight The empty weight of the moving truck, prior to loading your goods.
Tariff The movers rates and charges for services performed during your move.
Valuation The declared amount your goods are worth. Determined by you, it establishes the movers maximum liability for loss or damage to your goods.
I hope these have helped. As with any profession, ther are many more phrases and words used internally. If you see something not on the list, email me...I'll add it!
Levittown to Leviathan (2)
To relocate people in and out of these homes we have 53 foot long tractor-trailers (sometimes two-or three- are needed), and a service industry with a cafeteria plan of specialty providers. Today's average move data provide this number: 23,000 pounds. That is the average move my company performed last year. How far we have come in the fifty odd years since the Second World War. From Levittown, to Leviathan. Our homes have grown, and the possessions we need to fill them have increased also. We have become a nation of consumers. Perhaps not for the better, either.
The little cape of my childhood was big enough for my dreams
The little cape of my childhood was big enough for my dreams
From Levittown to Leviathan
Levittown was an experiment that changed the way most of us would live. A totally fabricated community created from large tracts of open farmland, Levittown's planners and builders brought Henry Ford's assembly line production techniques to the construction industry. Separate crews of men each had specific jobs that they repeated over and over again. Framers, roofers, plumbers, electricians, plasterers, interior finish carpenters. Day after day they built the same segments of the same house over and over again. They were fast, cost efficient and gained productivity as they repeated their processes each day. Levittown was a huge maze of suburban homes stamped out much like cookies on a baking sheet.
The homes were cheap, small and all created from the same floor plan. The joke was told: "Don’t get drunk, you'll end up in your neighbor's bed!" (So much did they look alike.) What driving force mandated this large number of affordable small homes? The postwar era did. Thousands of returning servicemen and women had married, found jobs and had babies. They created an enormous demand on the housing market. Levittown was an early attempt to solve that problem, and was a success. It was so successful, in fact, that it was duplicated in various forms all over the US, and especially near urban areas.
I was born in 1949, and lived in a kind of Levittown (on a small scale) outside of Boston, Massachusetts. Every house was alike, small (the Cape Cod style was prevalent), and new. Homes were punched out along newly made streets like bottles flying off an assembly line: shiny, clean and the same. Oh, and full of children, everywhere. (They called it the "baby boom" for a good reason.) I think my parents bought theirs for $8000. The floor plan was simple, A living room, kitchen and two bedrooms on the first floor. (The second floor-(attic)-was unfinished, as was the basement.) We were lucky; we had a single car garage. You couldn't fit much in the way of furniture in those homes, and researching 1950's move data, I found he average move to be about 6000 pounds. The moving van was a large straight truck, or rarely, a 26-foot long tractor-trailer. Almost every family I knew was "starting out" and had yet to fill the house with knick- knacks. Levittown dictated the size of home (and amount of household goods) most of us would have, and grow up in the decades after World War II
Not so today. Look around your town, and I'll bet you'll find a few leviathans lurking in the trees. You know, those huge "showcase" homes that would have been mistaken for the library or city hall, or a college, years ago. Levittown, on steroids, perhaps. I am in these homes frequently, and remain amazed at the use (and waste) of space. Master suites, solariums, theaters, au pair wings, libraries, game rooms, guest suites, three and four car garages, gazebos, exercise rooms. The list goes on and often only two people rattle around in these cavernous spaces. It's still suburbia, but a long way from the simple living spaces of my youth (and most of my generation). My parents home would have fit- in it's entirety- in the living room of some of these homes.
The homes were cheap, small and all created from the same floor plan. The joke was told: "Don’t get drunk, you'll end up in your neighbor's bed!" (So much did they look alike.) What driving force mandated this large number of affordable small homes? The postwar era did. Thousands of returning servicemen and women had married, found jobs and had babies. They created an enormous demand on the housing market. Levittown was an early attempt to solve that problem, and was a success. It was so successful, in fact, that it was duplicated in various forms all over the US, and especially near urban areas.
I was born in 1949, and lived in a kind of Levittown (on a small scale) outside of Boston, Massachusetts. Every house was alike, small (the Cape Cod style was prevalent), and new. Homes were punched out along newly made streets like bottles flying off an assembly line: shiny, clean and the same. Oh, and full of children, everywhere. (They called it the "baby boom" for a good reason.) I think my parents bought theirs for $8000. The floor plan was simple, A living room, kitchen and two bedrooms on the first floor. (The second floor-(attic)-was unfinished, as was the basement.) We were lucky; we had a single car garage. You couldn't fit much in the way of furniture in those homes, and researching 1950's move data, I found he average move to be about 6000 pounds. The moving van was a large straight truck, or rarely, a 26-foot long tractor-trailer. Almost every family I knew was "starting out" and had yet to fill the house with knick- knacks. Levittown dictated the size of home (and amount of household goods) most of us would have, and grow up in the decades after World War II
Not so today. Look around your town, and I'll bet you'll find a few leviathans lurking in the trees. You know, those huge "showcase" homes that would have been mistaken for the library or city hall, or a college, years ago. Levittown, on steroids, perhaps. I am in these homes frequently, and remain amazed at the use (and waste) of space. Master suites, solariums, theaters, au pair wings, libraries, game rooms, guest suites, three and four car garages, gazebos, exercise rooms. The list goes on and often only two people rattle around in these cavernous spaces. It's still suburbia, but a long way from the simple living spaces of my youth (and most of my generation). My parents home would have fit- in it's entirety- in the living room of some of these homes.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
Posts
